After the fun and frivolity that was the London’s men’s collections last week we move to Milan for the Autumn or Fall/Winter collections as they call them and some of our more established designers that showed over the weekend. And you know me I will also be looking for the point of difference and the designers that are not just sticking with the very commercial straight suiting styles that can tend to dominate the Autumn and Winter collections, when it can sometimes be all about staying warm (well not here in Perth really) and so the colour palettes can be quite drab and sometimes there is nothing interesting to say except perhaps about the cut of a jacket and if it has 2 or 4 buttons.
There is plenty of attention given to the women’s wear shows and that does not mean I will not be looking at them as well but my main focus is on menswear as I love to see what is upcoming and what we can perhaps hope to see in some of our retailers and in terms of Milan some of our high-end retailers who chose to stock some of these labels that can be very expensive here in Australia.
In my love of the quirky and the chance to put your own spin on a look that works for you I have found 3 of may favourites that showed over the weekend and who once again did not disappoint in what they sent out onto the catwalk. I have always loved the very distinct post punk style that Vivienne Westwood www.viviennewestwood.co.uk creates with each successive season and this latest range did not disappoint. With relaxed soft lines and silhouettes and lux fabrics abounding the story was one to delight followers of the Westwood brand.
Vivienne Westwood and creative director and husband Andreas Kronthaler take a bow!
Unlike some autumnal designers who stick with quite dark and uninspiring colours, the designs in this range mixed a range of colours that brightened to-day and added some great new looks for the coming season! Yes there was blacks and some brown hues but there were pops of colour and patterning along with a range of great shoes to compliment each outfit. Trouser length was a feature with them each reaching the ankle to show off colourful socks and to really highlight the shoes and for someone into shoes then this was a real delight but something that you need to get used to. The oversized knitwear was also a stand out with soft patterning. All in all the range did not seem to have a distinct story but presented a series of looks that would appeal to many.
Salvatore Ferragamo www.ferragamo.com is more mainstream perhaps than Westwood and is certainly seen in Italy as a much more luxurious brand and this range did not disappoint. With large oversized jackets to rich autumn hues this range was much more commercial and suited to those who enjoy their clothing with more of a predictable air but there were 2 or 3 stand out pieces that used colour imaginatively to add some fun to the collection.
Ferragamo style and substance takes to the catwalk!
Ferragamo is one of those brands that does suiting well and completes the look with trench coats that make a statement and this collection added tones of orange throughout to give a nice blend with the other usual autumnal colours included like the browns, blacks and blues. There was also some interesting patterning on some of the jackets and suits to give them a different edge that would appeal to those looking for something a little different. The oversized jackets that included a band of orange in the middle were the highlights for me and I loved the look of these!
Finally from one of my favourite Italian design teams comes the latest range from Dolce & Gabbana www.dolcegabbana.com who have created a range that tips its hat at Game of Thrones, although to read everything that they have said about this range that was not their inspiration but the thought that we were going into a more medieval time and that is how they came up with the range that included sending models down the catwalk in crowns, chain mail and images on the clothing that was very Game of Thrones looking and was of course interpreted as such by those in attendance.
Dolce & Gabbana bask in the applause!
Oversized seems to be a trend for the upcoming season for the ranges over the past couple of days and the Dolce and Gabbana range was the same. The jumpers, jackets and sweats were all oversized and plush and included very regal looking prints with colours to match. I have always been a fan and this range did not disappoint. The colour palette was a little darker but there was also the inclusion of reds, purples and of course to add that royal/medieval look some gold. As with the other designers they also produce their own shoes and those created for this range added to the complete look for the season. A great fun, yet functional range!