Well here we are after yet another impressive day of showcases of menswear as part of Milan Autumn/Winter Fashion Week and a series of impressive shows to ponder and contemplate. Each and every show of course offers the designers interpretation of the trends and way forward for the upcoming Autumn/Winter seasons and 2 of those that impressed over night (Perth time) were Prada www.prada.com and Fendi www.fendi.com.
As usual Miuccia Prada always has her own take on the coming season and really does not get her influence from anywhere else than her own inspiration and this collection was no different. This was not a show that just showed menswear either but was interspersed with pieces from her womenswear collection as well. With a mix of live jazz music as well as a music from Nina Hargen in a set inspired to invoke the feeling of being in a theatre in the process of being constructed with scaffolding and a multi tiered platform of steel and felt that created an evocative environment for the fashion to come.
Colour, style and looser pants combine to create a distinct collection from PRADA!
This was a collection mainly built on tailoring, and Prada employed lightweight wools for breezy topcoats and trim jackets, with shawl collars or satin buttons. Loose trousers, trimmed with piping like sweat pants, and glossy sneakers, broke the formal mood. Slim scarves in colorful silk or shaggy fur were among the accessories that once again gave a Pradaesque touch of theatricality.
Many of the parades from this week have been very monochromatic but Muiccea Prada once again did her own thing and turned her back on prints, mixing offbeat colours like powder blue, violet or cinnamon in almost every outfit, giving them a real point of difference and style that was all her own. This was once again all about a vision that existed and was created with much fanfare.
By contrast Silvia Fendi rolled out an endless carpet of long-haired goat fur for an intense and brilliant catwalk debut for the house’s men’s collection in Milan. This was a luxurious collection that included a truly inspired catwalk of faux fur and there was so much fur and leather on show here which I am sure would not please to PETA people out there…but this is Italy and it is Autumn/Winter so I suppose it was to be expected. Leaving futurism behind (which had been seen in a few of the other shows this week), the designer poured innovation into more enduring and rustic styles, in city-smart items like the sweater that opened the show, needle punched from knit to felt to shearling to create a real lux feel. This was a collection that would appeal to both business and those looking for a casual weekend look made up of lux fabrics and exquisite detail.
Luxurious fur and leather featured to create an expensive yet wearable collection from Fendi!
The tailoring was trim and quite traditional compared to others that showed like Westwood and Ferragamo, as we have seen for the past couple of seasons; the accessories were playful, ranging from leather sneakers to duffel bags in soft leather to huge fur mittens (and they really were huge – more for look than practicality I think) and hats to complete the looks she presented.
Fur and leather were the main stars here, and she created some of the most intricate outerwear seen in Milan this season. Many of the coats were reversible and were labour intensive as with many of the Fendi pieces and of course the price point will reflect this when it hit the stores…might just be a little outside of my budget but the range is still one to marvel at and dream of one day owning.