Paris Fashion Week is always full of divergent trends and ideas that all make it onto the catwalk. You will see new trends, a re-emergence of a fashion house that has perhaps been a little quiet over the last couple of seasons, some ground breaking parades that make everyone re-evaluate a designer, strong statements and so much more. Today in Paris was no different with a range of labels showing and a range of different interpretations on what was being shown by the assembled media.
Two of the shows that stood out for me, for very different reasons, and that had very different stories to tell were the Lanvin and Rick Owens shows!
First we start with a look at the latest collection from Alber Elbaz of Lanvin www.lanvin.com who put together and staged an absolutely stunning autumn presentation. This was high-end, top of the line fashion that women who want to be seen in luxurious, expertly tailored clothes will just love!
I have heard this collection called flamboyant and extreme but for me it was a collection of practical outfits that embraced the former and went in a range of directions but they all worked so well together and presented a structured collection.
For every collection to be successful you must want to go out and buy items from it and it needs to be wearable and have freedom of movement. This collection flowed throughout, it played out at times in abundant extremes in dresses and coats and then went more simple and fresh with a series of thin, silk gowns in navy, black, cosmetic pink, worn under grand, feathered picture hats, reminiscent of Audrey Hepburn. The sense of flow followed through with long fringing and added another gorgeous element as well. This was not a one story collection but a fast paced presentation that offered many interpretations on the theme from a sleek trench to pleated dancing dresses and a bubble-skirted slip dress. With each element we then saw a fur-embellished strong footed strutting woman or a modern take on a 30’s flapper.
This was not a collection full of the usual evening gowns but surprised with short, crisp dresses that were deep-toned and included colour-blocked fringe that swung abundantly as the models made their way down the catwalk. This was a grand story, told with lushness and filled with wonder!
Another designer that I love because he always pushes forward with a very distinct vision is Rick Owens www.rickowens.eu who once again made a strong point for autumn 2014 with a creative, brash show and a lineup of wonderful clothes that pushed forward with just the right amount of urban swagger to appeal to me and those assembled.
I also love that Owens does not always just use the classic models that you see at every show but is prepared to blur the gender and age boundaries with how he showcases his collection. This show was no different as he cast a group of friends, employees and models to walk the runway. This was not the usual fashion show and it subverted fashion norms: several looks came out on multiple rotation, reinforcing the story and the delight in this amazing designs.
The clothes were dynamic whilst at the same time being futuristic and tribal. With a slight nod to bondage, pieces came in black, grey and deep red; they were extremely sculptural and textured, and there was an exaggerated proportion on show with oversize tops in cashmere and sleeves going almost to the floor as well as large bows at the neck.
There were some tailored pieces included in the collection but they would not be seen as clothes that you would wear to the office but had a much more modern, free spirited vibe, especially the sharp-shouldered coat with pleat insets shown with motorcycle pants which again told a futuristic story.