Here I sit in the heat of a Perth summer and over in the cold of Milan they are showing the new Autumn (or Fall as they call it) menswear collections and following on from my review of the Raf Simons collection yesterday here are my thoughts on a couple of the other shows.
Dsquared2 always push the boundaries with lots of flesh, the hottest male models and a more casual collection than you see from many of the other menswear designers that show in Paris and this collection is no exception.
With lots of skinny legged jeans and pants with small rips and frays, as well as more structured pants in leather with studs and more formal suit pants embellished with creative sequined patterns on the sides, that were matched with bright flashes of colour and really large fur hats this is a collection that will appeal across the board as it offered something for everyone.
Sleeveless seems to be a trend for the autumn collections and Dsquared2 have produced sleeveless printed tshirts, bomber jackets and waistcoats as well as full fur options in both waistcoats and jackets. Leather jackets were also a feature in the collection and the last black jacket that was sent out with detailing on the lapels that made it almost seem like a matador jacket but with the addition of a detachable longer addition with fringing was a real statement piece.
Double belting is also big in this collection along with hats of various shapes and sizes, with a lean towards larger hats that make a statement along with the rest of an outfit.
And as a lover of shoes it was so nice to see shoes and boots back with a real definition and a pointed toe – a style that I love and just added to the looks presented here. This was a bold collection that will find be a hit in the market place.
Thanks to http://www.tomandlorenzo.com for the photos of the Dsquared2 parade.
One of the other highlights of the past couple of days was the very different and new parade from Gucci that surprised and delighted with its fresh new approach after the surprise early exit by outgoing designer Frida Giannini.
Now led by Alessandro Michele, who previously was in charge of the brand’s accessories — they have reworked the entire collection. The new team offered up a collection that had very little in common with the work done by the woman who had helmed the label for almost a decade.
Whilst Giannini had a clear love of the 70s and an affinity for a more dandy-esque sort of menswear, Michele and his team pushed those ideas even further. They presented a collection that mixed male and female models wearing pieces that blurred gender lines.
From the first pussy bow red silk shirt that opened the show, through to the bracelet sleeve jackets, ruffled turtlenecks and sheer floral lace tops this collection took Gucci in a decidedly new direction, that allowed for the new design team to stamp their own individual vision on the collection. Also pushing in a new direction were the accessories from the fur edged slide on shoes, the jaunty berets and knit pompom-caps.
There was colour here and beauty in the tailoring, but we wouldn’t expect anything less really. The jackets were a delight in the look, cut and design.
This was a collection that looked youthful, as in the models seemed as if they might just be hitting puberty, but above all it looked different. That is exactly what Gucci needs right now. They needed a new hit and to gain some more traction and market share to stay relevant in an ever crowded menswear landscape and I think they have done just that with this collection.
The new design team at Gucci.