So now we have done the glamour and the beauty that was the European slate of fashion shows it is time to turn our minds to New York Fashion Week and the last showing at the Lincoln Centre.
For the past couple of seasons the fashion pack has been moaning and complaining about a range of elements of the New York shows, from the chaos to check in, to the location, to the level of designers showing and the lack of any real difference between the shows.
Whilst all of these are very valid issues that will hopefully be addressed with the move after this lot of shows we all need to remember that for the fun, creative, artistic and the Haute Couture shows to be able to continue we still need to see the highly commercial shows all vying for editorial coverage so that the designers can make a living to be able to see their visions become a reality.
We need to support all elements of the industry because they all work together to create the collections and they all assist to make the vision of the designer a reality. At the end of the day it is all about the fashion and what is shown but it is also about making a living and doing what we can to support the fashion industry and the designers both established and the new ones to be able to keep creating their fashion whilst also allowing them to stay true to their creative visions.
So as we move towards this last series of shows at Lincoln Centre there are a range of things that are being discussed all over town about where too from here and what the year ahead may or may not hold in store.
Moving the tents – a cool move?
The idea is that if the tents are moved then they will become central, hip and cool again. IMG—the group that owns and runs the fashion show venue at Lincoln Center—aren’t talking about the reasons for the shows’ planned move downtown after this season. But what has happened is they have listened to the loud chorus . With so many of the runway action happening downtown—in West Chelsea, the Meatpacking District, and in the past year, West Soho—making the journey up to the tents was getting to be a hassle for everyone. IMG has gotten, and they understand, too, that the lineup at Lincoln Center has lacked quality control, and that the experience of checking in for shows at the sponsor-heavy Lincoln Center lobby was chaotic and oppressive.
The goal is to find a space downtown for the shows that is less costly and that the selection of designers that show are more considered. In other New York news IMG is in the final stages of its planned acquisition of Made Fashion Week, headquartered at Milk Studios. This has the real possibility of turning around the ‘tent’ experience and bringing it back to the city’s main mainstage for New York Fashion Week when we get to September.
Tom Ford in L.A. and not New York.
There is one designer who is never afraid to ruffle feathers and march to his own drum…Tom Ford has raised eyebrows by announcing that he is moving his show to L.A. Los Angeles isn’t really a bad place to put on a fashion show; it was more the timing that had the biggest effect. This new collection heads down the runway on February 20, which just happens to be the first day of London fashion week. Fortunately most fashion editors don’t arrive in London until a day or two later. It is all about the flying between London and LA that has raised eyebrows. This is the start of the season and carries on to Milan, and then Paris. Will all of these editors come back for this show and is he worried? I would suggest not as he will have a front row filled with celebrities. Brilliant!
The age paradigm?
It is really interesting to note that in the past couple of seasons that the industry has started to step outside of the self imposed age restrictions that have been the default and to see older women heading into the fashion spotlight on the catwalk. You just need to remember seeing Joni Mitchell modelling for Yves Saint Laurent, and Joan Didion, who has just turned 80, in the Instagrammed Céline ad. Will that then mean that we Doewill be seeing older models at the shows in New York. That is a hard one to answer but we did see Lanvin go down that road to much acclaim last season and at the recent Milan and Paris shows there were a few older models taking the to catwalk. I think what we will find is that one or two designers it will probably put an occasional older model into their runway line up, not to make a statement but to follow what others are doing, which is not really the point.
And that is just the start of the word on the street in New York at present and the topics that are being discussed over a perfectly chilled glass of Cristal as we all ponder what is next and how New York will evolve over the coming year in terms of the shows we all love to see!